How to Find Your Hair Texture

Many people often confused hair density and hair texture and although they are related, they describe very different aspects of your hair. Hair texture describes the width (diameter) of your individual hair strands which are grouped into three categories - fine texture, medium texture and coarse texture. Hair density describes the number of hair strands you have on your head which are grouped into three categories - low density (thin hair), medium density (average) and high density (thick hair). If this is all new to you, don’t worry, you’ve come to the right place! At The Good Hair Co, we aim to help you uncover the mysteries of the hair world to bring you closer to understanding your hair and establishing the perfect routine for your hair’s profile.

WHAT DOES MY HAIR STRAND LOOK LIKE?

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Your hair has two distinct structures - the hair follicle itself and the hair strand (aka hair shaft). The hair follicle is a funnel-shaped structure in the outer layer of the skin (the epidermis) where the hair goes through a process called keratinisation to form the hair you can see on your head known as the hair shaft. This hair shaft (aka hair strand) is made up of 3 layers - a cuticle layer which is the outermost layer, a cortex layer which is the second layer and a medulla which is the innermost layer mainly found in coarse-textured hair.

As the hair follicle shape determines the curl pattern of your strands (straight, wavy, curly or coily hair), the hair follicle size determines the texture (i.e. diameter) of your hair strand (fine, medium and coarse). Hair density describes the number of hair strands that sprout out of your follicles.

HOW DO I FIND MY HAIR TEXTURE?

When it comes to finding your hair’s texture, the easiest and most cost-efficient way is to use two of your 5 senses - sight and touch. Fine hair texture tends to feel very light, silky and barely there when you hold a single strand between your thumb and forefinger. You’d probably have to hold it close to your eyes to see it properly or you’d probably not notice it’s there at all, even if you rubbed your fingers together. Medium hair texture, however, is a little thicker than fine hair. It tends to feel like a fine cotton thread and can be felt when holding a strand between your forefingers. This is the hair texture most people have but, you’ll probably need to rub your fingers together to feel it consistently. Coarse hair on the other hand is thick, wiry and very much present. You can feel a strand between your fingers without needing to rub your fingers together and you can still describe how it felt even if you are no longer holding the hair strand (aka hair shaft). 


Fine Hair Texture

  • Your texture has a very thin cuticle layer, a small cortex and unlikely to have a medulla present.

  •  It is typically smooth but the lack of layers make it fragile and prone to breakage. 

  • This texture requires strengthening ingredients.

Medium Hair Texture

  • Your texture will typically have a normal size cuticle layer, a normal size cortex and possibly a medulla.

  • Your hair is typically soft and holds styles well when using light products but it is prone to frizz. 

  • Your texture requires smoothening ingredients.

Coarse Hair Texture

  • Your texture will have a large follicle and a thick hair shaft which consists of all 3 layers of the hair - a cuticle layer, a cortex and a medulla.

  • Having all 3 layers makes your hair texture strong and resistant to heat but prone to dryness and frizz. 

  • Your texture requires deep moisturising ingredients.


Remember, hair texture is the size of a single strand of your hair and not the condition of your hair. Dry, oily, frizzy, relaxed and damaged are all terms that describe the condition of your hair, not your hair’s natural texture. Your hair can be fine, medium or coarse with oily roots and dry ends and frizzy. Therefore determining your hair’s texture purely on what you feel might not be enough to guarantee your actual hair’s texture.

Another way to test how fine, medium or coarse your hair texture is would be to compare the hair strands on your head to the hair strands on your pubic area. The texture of your pubic hair, facial hair and armpit hair tend to be thicker and more coarse than the hair on the rest of your body. This is because they are all the same type of hair, called terminal hair. During childhood, we develop short, fine, light-coloured, and barely noticeable hair known asvellus hair. Once you hit puberty this vellus hair starts to change to more coarse hair due to hormones. If your hair strand is about the same size as the terminal hair then you have coarse hair texture. If your hair strand is significantly thinner than the terminal hair then you have fine hair texture. If your hair strand is not as thick or significantly thinner than the terminal hair then you have medium hair texture.


This is just an indication to help you understand the texture of your hair and not an exact science. If you’d like a more scientific approach then you could visit a clinically trained hair care professional who can perform a check using a Phototrichogram or a TrichoScan.

WHY IS HAIR TEXTURE IMPORTANT FOR MY HAIRCARE?

Most people have a combination of two hair textures that can change due to diet, genetics, medical conditions or hair practices. The care and treatment your hair needs will vary from one hair texture type to another. Knowing what your hair texture is now will help you to observe changes better so you can understand why it has changed and how to manage it.

WHAT DO I DO NOW?

Now that you have an idea of what your hair texture could be read our blog post on the difference between hair texture and textured hair. Better yet, book your consultation with one of our certified hair experts. Get a personalised regimen consisting of highly effective product recommendations to solve your hair and scalp concerns. Let us help you discover the expert hair care advice you need to get the healthy hair you want.

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What is Hair Density?

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Hair Texture vs Textured Hair